Montana Pitch-Blend
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Montana Pitch-Blend |
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Frequently Asked Questions & TipsFAQ Category Links
General
Our leather oil is a unique, all natural blend of whole pine pitch and pure mink oil. When we add beeswax, the result is our exceptionally water-repellent leather dressing. Our conditioners contain no petroleum, silicone or alcohol.
Pine Pitch, used for centuries to waterproof canoes, has preservative, antibacterial, antifungal, and healing properties and has long been used as a first aid remedy to heal wounds. The whole pine pitch in our products preserves leather and protects it from the elements while providing Montana Pitch-Blend conditioners with a high degree of adhesion so that they do not wear off easily, eliminating the need for frequent re-applicaton. As a bonus, Montana Pitch-Blend's conditioners have a subtle, fresh, natural pine scent, making it pleasant to use and providing cover scent for hunters, particularly bowhunters. Mink Oil restores and maintains leather's suppleness by replenishing oils lost through exposure to air, sun, water, dirt, and through daily use. Without conditioning, leather w ill dry and crack. Mink oil works in easily, and provides excellent resistance to water. Only pure mink oil is used - it is never diluted with cheaper, less effective ingredients. Beeswax, virtually impervious to water, combined with our unique blend of mink oil and pine pitch, makes Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Dressing the finest, longest lasting water-repellent conditioning available.
Because the ingredients are all natural. Bees produce different colored wax depending on the geographical area in which the hive is located and the types of flowers from which the pollen is collected. Mink oil varies in color and the color of pine pitch changes depending on the type of tree it comes from, the season, and where it is collected. Color variations are due to the fact that Nature itself is not consistent.
It matters to those who know best: leather professionals. Countless custom boot makers, saddle makers, cobblers and custom leather clothing designers tell us they prefer to use products like ours which contain natural ingredients. They tell us that they find artificial ingredients like petroleum or silicon e to be either less effective or sometimes even harmful to leather. (Unlike most manufacturers, we proudly list all our ingredients on our label.)
No. Independent experts, including chemists from the Leather Industries Research Lab, inform us that mink oil itself is not harmful to leather. (Remember that animal oils were in the leather to start with and are frequently used in the tanning process.) Oils must be restored to leather from time to time in order to maintain suppleness and provide protection. Pure mink oil like that used in Montana Pitch-Blend is a long-respected conditioner. Stories about mink oil itself being damaging are myths. Sometimes they refer to so-called mink oil "blends" which actually consist of a little mink oil mixed with a large amount of less expensive oil (usually petroleum-based). Sadly, misinformation about mink oil is often spread by companies with an interest in harming the reputation of competing products which contain animal oils.
First of all, these are the kinds of rumors which people tell us they hear from someone who makes or sells products which do not contain animal oils! There are many many rumors and pieces of misinformation having to do with products like ours, rumors which we have thoroughly checked out with unbiased leather experts. The short answer is that our products do NOT turn rancid, nor will any good mink oil product. Believe me, if our conditioners made their $5000 saddles or $300 boots stink, we'd be out of business. And as for "discoloring" - if the question is really about whether our conditioners will darken leather, the answer is that it really depends on the leather. When we are talking about a a black jacket - obviously our conditioners won't affect the color. When it comes to more natural (i.e. brown, undyed) leather, most oil-based conditioners will darken the leather a shade or two. If color is a concern, it is important to test any conditioner in an inconspicuous spot before treating the entire item - this is true whenever you use any product for the first time.
Improper care is the biggest culprit. Neglecting leather or applying conditioner to wet or dirty leather can trap moisture, dirt and bacteria, causing leather and thread to deteriorate. Nothing in our conditioners will damage threads or stitching. (In fact, the pitch in the formula helps leather resist bacteria and fungus.)
The dressing includes beeswax in addition to the blend of pine pitch and mink oil, which makes up the leather oil. Because of the beeswax, the dressing provides the maximum level of water-repellency. (Note: The two products are identical in conditioning properties and, while the dressing is more water-repellent, the oil is still extremely water-resistant.) Also because of the beeswax, the dressing may be buffed after application and may be used over shoe polish. Some people find that the oil is a little easier to use than the paste which requires more effort to work it into the leather. Ultimately, many people choose to use both products - the oil to restore or for quick applications; the dressing as a top dressing on saddles or for higher water-repellency when needed.
Many years ago, we gave up advising customers about which product to use for particular applications because we have found that decisions like this are very personal. Some folks simply prefer a liquid oil, others prefer a paste, regardless of the application. Our customers are a creative lot and have experimented and found all sorts of uses for our products! Although we initially created our oil in response to requests from saddlers, we know that our leather dressing is also used by many custom saddle makers and saddle repair shops. Bow hunters generally prefer the dressing for its exceptional water repellency, but some simply want a quick conditioner and use the oil. We tout the water-repellent protection of the dressing, yet one of our customers maintained completely dry feet for days and days while doing sandbagging work in the flooded Mississippi. Many of our customers (individuals as well as professionals in the leather trades) use both products: the oil as an initial conditioner or for restoration and the dressing as a finish or when extra water-repellency is required. Ultimately, the decision on which product to use is purely a question of personal preference and can best be made by trying both products, experimenting, and figuring out what works best based on your individual needs and preferences.
Montana Pitch-Blend leather conditioners are not suggested for use on suede, rough-out or Nubuck leathers primarily because most oil-based conditioners may change the texture from "napped" or suede-like to a smoother texture. Most consumers purchase suede, Nubuck or rough-out leather goods because of their look, texture and feel and may not want to change that. There are products on the market specifically intended for suede and Nubuck. Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Dressing and Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Oil conditioners will not harm leather itself in any way. The function of the leather will not be compromised in any way by using our products - in fact, the leather will benefit from being conditioned because suppleness and water-resistance will be maintained. That being said, we have heard from customers who have used our leather dressing and leather oil on Nubuck or rough-out boots and were very satisfied with the results. They report that our conditioners did not noticeably change the texture and only darkened the leather a bit just as most oil-based products will. Our conditioners will of course, protect, preserve and condition the leather. The choice of whether to use our products on non-smooth leathers is entirely up to the consumer, who assumes all risks. DISCLAIMER: Because our products were developed for use on rugged outdoor leather (footwear, saddles, hunting gear) and are intended for smooth leather, customers who use them in other applications do so at their own risk. Montana Pitch-Blend Products assumes no responsibility for the results of using its products for purposes other than those recommended by the company.
NOTE: For any application, when using any conditioner for the first time, it
is strongly advised that one test a small amount of the leather
conditioner in an inconspicuous area of the leather piece first,
in order to be sure that the results will be those desired.
A common question: "If
I use Montana Pitch Blend Dressing on my boots, can I still polish them with
regular paste wax such as Kiwi or Lincoln Stain Wax etc? Some leather dressings
won't permit a boot to take a shine after the leather dressing is used. Will
your product prevent me from getting a high gloss shine on my boots?" The short answer is "Yes." Here's the advice of a
well-respected shoe repair shop owner and cobbler: "Since
Montana Pitch-Blend PASTE [Dressing] has ingredients compatible with and/or
identical to shoe polish and shoe cream it should not prevent the user from
getting a 'nice' shine on the shoes or boots. The 'gloss' of the shine depends
also on the type and quality of the leather, the amount of polish and Montana
Pitch-Blend Leather Dressing used (very little) and the time spent to 'develop'
the shine (a lot). " In general, if you need to
condition your footwear, we would suggest a LIGHT application of leather
dressing. Work it in well and then either let it sit for a few days to absorb
completely or use a hair dryer (on LOW heat) to work the dressing in. Then polish and finish the footwear. To protect the polish you may do what some cobblers have reported that they do: they apply a light coat of Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Dressing over the polish once polish has dried. A light coating of dressing helps the polish last longer and keeps footwear water-resistant. We also hear from shoe repair shops that Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Dressing also works better at blending in and minimizing the appearance of scuffs than another leading brands on the market .
Unfortunately, some boot manufacturers may have their own reasons for recommending against using certain types of conditioners on boots lined with GORE-TEX®. Some companies may be concerned that consumers will use just about anything on their boots and want to narrow the choices to certain "safe" products. Some companies may be concerned that some products may affect breathability if over-applied. Some boot manufacturers offer their own leather care products and wish to boost sales of those products. In the case of so-called dry-tanned leather, some companies recommend only silicone products. What consumers don't always realize is that silicone, while it will provide a water-resistant coating, won't do a thing to condition the leather. In fact, many leather professionals feel that silicone will dry out leather. Left unconditioned, the leather will eventually dry and crack and sustain irreversible damage. If in doubt, check with a local, reputable independent shoe repair shop or some other leather professional who has no affiliation to any particular product or brand.
Some - but not all - GORE-TEX® -lined boots and some - but not all - so-called "waterproof" boots are made from what is known in some circles as "dry-tanned" leather. Some manufacturers claim that oil-based products should not be used on these boots. We consulted Frank Rutland (past Technical Director of Leather Industries of America and past Director of the Leather Industries Research Laboratory at the University of Cincinnati, a past President of the American Leather Chemists Association and past Chairman of the American Society for Testing and Materials Committee D-31 on Leather) who replied: "What this term ("dry-tanned") may refer to is some of the newer waterproof leathers, which are produced with what are known as lubricating acrylic syntans, and contain little or no additional lubricating oils (fatliquors) - thus "dry" in the sense there are no added oils. Leathers of this type can easily lose their water resistance properties if treated with surface active agents that may be contained in some leather cleaning / conditioning products." (NOTE: Montana Pitch-Blend products contain no surface active agents.) "I agree with your position that treating leather - any type of leather - with oil is beneficial. The natural oils and added fatliquors in the leather tend to oxidize and "dry out" over time, and need to be replenished. This helps prolong the life of the leather and prevents loss of strength and softness. I do not know of any type of leather that is harmed by the addition of oil." Countless numbers of Montana Pitch-Blend customers use our leather dressing and leather oil on their "dry-tanned" leather boots with excellent results. We are confident in recommending our leather conditioners for all rugged outdoor leather footwear including dry-tanned leather footwear.
Yes. The silicone treatment will eventually wear off and you must use something to maintain water-repellency. A spray silicone will waterproof, but won't condition the leather (in fact, the silicone may eventually dry the leather out). If you use an oil-based conditioner like ours, the leather will stay water-repellent and supple. According to independent experts whom we have consulted, so-called "dry-tanned" leathers simply have had no oils added to them and can easily lose water resistance. Treating dry-tanned leather with our conditioners will not harm them but will actually prolong the life of the leather, preventing loss of strength and suppleness.
Although our leather conditioners will certainly not harm these leathers in any way, we do not generally recommend Montana Pitch-Blend leather conditioners for use on suede, rough-out or Nubuck leathers only because the appearance and feel of the leather may be somewhat altered. Sometimes oil-based products like ours may change the texture of the leather from a "napped" or suede-like to a smoother texture. When a consumer purchases a suede, Nubuck or rough-out leather because or appearance or texture, that consumer may not want the appearance or texture to be changed. (The function of the leather will not be compromised in any way by using our products - in fact, the leather will benefit.) That being said, we are pleased to report that we have heard from customers who have used our leather dressing and leather oil on some suede, Nubuck or rough-out boots and leather goods and were very satisfied with the results. While our conditioners may change or smooth out the texture, in some cases, they did not noticeably change the texture and only darkened the leather a bit (as most oil-based products will). Be assured that our conditioners will of course, protect, preserve and condition the leather. NOTE: The choice of whether to use our products on non-smooth leathers is entirely up to the consumer who assumes all risks.
Yes, our products may darken leather a shade or two. This is fine for most folks as the change does not affect the function of the leather and only darkens a shade or two, depending on the leather in question. Others who prefer that their saddle or boots maintain a light color may want to seek another conditioner which is intended for light colored leather. NOTE: We always advise testing any leather conditioner in an inconspicuous spot before treating an entire leather item for the first time.
Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Dressing is excellent as a top dressing for English saddles. Not only does it condition, but it may be buffed up to a lovely rich glow. One of the stores which has carried our leather dressing for years is exclusively an English shop and recommends our dressing to all their customers.
Here's what one of our
customers, who collects and restores antique books, has to say
about Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Dressing and his 400-year-old
book: The International
Book Collectors Association
however, suggest caution: We strongly suggest proceeding carefully and cautiously. Remember, because our products were developed for and are recommended for use on rugged, outdoor leather, consumers who use our products in other applications do so at their own risk. Montana Pitch-Blend Products assumes no responsibility for the results of using its products for purposes other than those recommended by the company. NOTE: For any application, when using any conditioner for the first time, it is strongly advised that one test a small amount of the leather conditioner in an inconspicuous area of the leather piece first, in order to be sure that the results will be those desired.
Our conditioners were designed for rugged outdoor leathers which are used for footwear, saddles and tack, motorcycle leathers, etc. Some furniture leathers are quite different from outdoor leathers and the products needed to protect certain furniture leathers are different. Use of our products on leather other than rugged outdoor leather may not produce optimum results. It is most prudent to use products which are intended for the application at hand. There are many products on the market formulated specifically for leather furniture. Some companies produce products which protect against scratches, repair scratches, remove stains, etc. The best advice we can offer is this: Consult with a reputable local upholsterer who works with leather furniture or a furniture retailer where leather furniture is sold. Not only will your local professional be able to better analyze your needs, but they will be able to suggest the most appropriate products. That being said, we have heard from many consumers who have been using Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Dressing on leather furniture for many years with success. These consumers assumed ALL RISK associated with using our products in an application for which we do not recommend them. They also TESTED the conditioner on a small area before proceeding. We are aware that some consumers will still go ahead and use our conditioners. WE REMIND SUCH CONSUMERS that, because our products were developed for use on rugged, outdoor leather, they do so at their own risk. Montana Pitch-Blend Products assumes no responsibility for the results of using its products for purposes other than those recommended by the company. NOTE: For any application using any conditioner for the first time, it is strongly advised that one test a small amount of the leather conditioner in an inconspicuous area of the leather piece first, in order to be sure that the results will be those desired and to be sure that the leather dressing does not darken more than desired and that it does not leave an unwanted residue. Finally, keep in mind that our products are not cleaners. For cleaning leather furniture, please use a product specifically designed to clean leather upholstery, preferably one recommended by a reputable local leather furniture professional.
Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Dressing and Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Oil were created for rugged outdoor leather goods like boots, saddles, hunting and sports equipment, etc. Leathers used for these items are not finished or treated in the same way as leather airplane upholstery. Questions about maintaining airplane leather upholstery, is somewhat outside our area of expertise. Because airplane upholstery must be fireproofed must meet federal standards, the best course of action is to consult an upholsterer or the manufacturer of the leather itself. These professionals will best be able to make an appropriate suggestion for maintenance. Other resources include an auto detailer, a reputable upholsterer, or even a furniture store which deals in high-end leather furniture although they may not be able to address the question of fireproofed leather. In general, we are cautious about using our products on anything but rugged outdoor leather. While outstanding for conditioning and protecting such outdoor leather goods, our company does not recommend them for use on leather upholstery [automotive or home] primarily because there is the chance that our products MAY leave residue on the upholstery which may not be desirable. They may also darken light colored leathers which, again may not be desirable.
While our leather conditioners certainly will not hurt the leather cushions and seatbacks, our products will not provide the glossy coat you need. In addition, as with car and airplane upholstery, the leather used is finished quite differently than the leather goods for which we recommend our products. Remember that our conditioners were developed for "rugged outdoor" goods like saddles, tack, boots, motorcycle leathers, sports and hunting gear, none of which are finished with a high gloss. It is likely that boat leather will not absorb oil-based leather conditioners like ours and there may be a bit of residue or tackiness which might be undesirable to folks sitting on the seats in their bathing suits!
We do not recommend our leather conditioners which are oil-based and are intended for rugged outdoor leather goods and are too heavy for fine, soft leather garments. One local leather shop tells us that water-based leather lotions are most appropriate for soft, fine leather garments such as lambskin - they offer the most even application and will not over-saturate the leather. There are a number of leather lotions on the market intended for fine leather garments. Another local leather shop owner suggests a spray-on conditioner, preferably one which does not contain silicone. He advises a spray because it will provide the most even application which is difficult to accomplish on a jacket when rubbing an oil or dressing on by hand. NOTE: For any application, when using any conditioner for the first time, it is strongly advised that one test a small amount of the leather conditioner in an inconspicuous area of the leather piece first, in order to be sure that the results will be those desired. It is always best to consult with a reputable local leather shop whenever you have a question about a specific problem or leather item as only a local professional can offer the best first-hand advice.
We do not have a definitive answer to the question about using our leather dressing on oiled cotton (also known as wax cotton "oilcloth") dusters but have contacted representatives of a couple of duster distributors. A representative of one company indicated that the product they buy for reproofing their coats contains mineral oil, lanolin, vitamin E oil, and selected waxes. Another company imports and distributes Australian gear including dusters as well as a product for reproofing the dusters. Dusters come from the manufacturer treated with a mixture of paraffin (wax) and mineral oil. One representative we spoke with said that their reproofer contains wax and oil but was uncertain about what specific types of wax and oil. We explained that our dressing contains pine pitch, mink oil and beeswax. He agreed that there probably isn't anything in it that would hurt a duster. The main question is whether or not it might change the color, darkening the fabric. We also wonder if our dressing might leave the duster a bit tacky at first. Our ultimate answer must be qualified by stating that our company does not recommend using our products on anything but rugged, outdoor leather. If one uses our products on other items, the consumer does so at his or her own risk. If one does use our products on other items - like a duster - we urge caution and suggest trying a small amount on an inconspicuous spot so that one can determine whether or not the results are those desired. Should one try our dressing on a duster we would be interested in feedback.
We receive this questions frequently and have consulted with leather professionals to try to learn the best ways to deal with this dilemma. Besides professional advice, we have a report from a consumer who followed up with the story of her own wrinkled leather. Their suggestions follow. Our first advice is, as always, to suggest that consumers seek the expert opinion of a local leather clothing shop or leather repair shop - take the garment in so that it may be examined first hand by a professional. Only by doing so can one be assured of the best advice and the most appropriate course of action.
Suggested
remedies (Remember:
Please read ADVICE DISCLAIMER):
1.
FROM AN INDEPENDENT LEATHER PROFESSIONAL: A local custom tailor who works on
motorcycle leathers and other leather clothing said that it might be safe to use
a little steam on the curled portions of the leather, then place
a book or two on top to keep it flat. Leave it overnight or longer.
She could not guarantee the results and cautioned
- THIS IS IMPORTANT - that one should not OVER steam and should NEVER touch the
leather with an iron or anything else that is hot.
2. FROM A CONSUMER: This woman reported back to us on how she ultimately solved the problem of a badly badly wrinkled leather skirt. "Thanks for the help with my wrinkled leather skirt. I've managed to remove most of the wrinkles by: hanging it up on a skirt hanger and clipping a pants hanger to the hem. I hung a small basket with 2 rolls of toilet paper (tested the weight, you see) onto the pants hanger. Then, hung the skirt in the bathroom with the steam [NOTE: we assume she ran the shower to steam up the bathroom]. It has really helped. I may resort to a bit of leather conditioner to see if that'll remove the rest of the wrinkles, and/or lay it between the beds mattress and box springs for a week, but the skirt is at least wearable."
Here is other information we have gleaned from the Internet regarding ink on leather:
1. From How to Remove Ink From a Leather Sofa by Barbara Ann Kipfer, Ph.D.
2. Two consumers weigh in on the subject of ink on leather When my SVT was but a few weeks old, I accidentally swiped a pen across the passenger seat. The seats had never been conditioned or cleaned before. After hyperventilating, I got out my Meguiar's Gold Class Leather Cleaner & Conditioner. Applying liberal amounts, and rubbing long, I got it out completely. Using your fingernail to rub it a bit helps, of course don't go overboard. Rub for a while, then dab it with more cleaner, wait a bit for that to soak in, then rub again. Patience is key. If you've previously conditioned your seats, I would think it would come out easier. I can't say this is the "best" product, since it's the only one I've ever tried. And my mark was relatively small, maybe 2". good luck!
3. More advice from a forum: A: If a soap like ivory or dish washing soap does not get it off gently, then you have to take it to a professional leather cleaner to do something . A: For my leather seats I try a good leather cleaner and scrub it with a leather brush. If this doesn't work then you try something progressively harsher such as Xenit-citrus. You may need to scrub it with a leather brush and apply it 2 or 3 times. I have never heard of anyone not getting rid of a stain with this product. Not yet anyway. A: The XENIT-citrus cleaner and remover is the way to go. And yes, the brush makes a great difference. Use a leather brush and don't worry about causing any type of damage to the leather. You can scrub leather with this brush. This is what a "professional" would do. As always, the best advice we can offer is this: Consult with a reputable local upholsterer who works with leather furniture or a furniture retailer where leather furniture is sold, or even a car detailer. Not only will your local professional be able to better analyze your needs, but they will also be able to suggest the most appropriate products.
Our first suggestion, as always, is to consult with a reputable local leather expert - preferably an upholsterer, custom leather craftsman, shoe repair shop or saddler - for the best and most accurate advice. We consulted a local upholsterer who has had decades of experience with leather furniture. He has advice, but it is preceded by a WARNING: Whatever you use to remove the gum, you may well be left with a different kind of spot on your couch. TEST FIRST in a small area where you cannot see it and see what the result is before proceeding. 1. His first suggestion is to use the same type of stuff we all used to get chewing gum out of our kids' hair - margarine, mineral oil, salad oil, pean ut butter (this last would leave a smell, however). A little of this oily stuff should soften the gum enough to remove it. KEEP IN MIND HOWEVER, you will likely be left with a greasy spot which may or may not be preferable to the chewing gum. 2. Alternatively, another suggestion he had was to use a little lighter fluid or Naphtha to remove the gum. Again, THERE IS A DOWNSIDE - it could damage the finish, the color or the sheen of the leather. TEST FIRST.\line \line Whichever way you go, this upholster said to follow up by wiping the leather with a damp cloth which has been dipped in warm, sudsy water (MILD soap - like Ivory or other dishwashing liquid) and rung out well. By the way, in this upholsterer's opinion, all one ever needs to use on leather upholstery is a damp cloth using mild soap. He said if leather gets old and dry and begins cracking, a lanolin conditioner can be helpful. CONSUMER FEEDBACK: Wow - I'd have never thought about vegetable oil, but it did the trick! Due to the location - somewhat under the arm rest of the couch, you can't tell even if there is an oil stain there. The gum cam e off quicker that I would have expected. I just dipped a cloth covered finger lightly into the oil and started rubbing gently. I then followed it up with the leather cleaner supplied when we got the furniture, it we seem 'good to go'. Thank you so very much for your assistance. I was at my wits end when I discovered it (it's about 4 days old) and the ice wasn't working. Thanks again!!
Here are suggestions from four different saddlers: 1. Totally wet the saddle with water. A bar of glycerin soap, rather than the spray, used with the water bath should do it. This will take out a lot of the oil - then place it inside (not in direct heat) and let it dry out. Then apply conditioner (like Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Dressing or Leather Oil) 2. I've had several cleaning jobs with old harness that sound similar to the sticky substance mentioned. The solution that worked for me was to start with a mix of three parts LeatherNew and 1 part ammonia. Obviously try on a safe area first and if more power is needed than go with a 50/50 mix. Scrub with a soft brush and then rinse well with lukewarm water. Just before the leather dries, while still cool to the touch apply the best conditioner on the market which of course is Montana Pitch Blend. 3. I contacted Stubben and asked for their suggestion, and they said elbow grease with glycerine cleaner, maybe rinsing with clean water. Our recommendation would be to use Lexol Ph cleaner with water and a lot of elbow grease. The oil that is in the saddle needs to work its way out, and that takes time. Also, [Stubben said] not to put an oil base conditioner back on the saddle. Their saddles are tanned with veg oil, not animal fats. So, of course, they recommend their cleaner and conditioner. [NOTE: We respectfully disagree with Stubben. Using our leather oil or leather dressing will NOT harm leather which was tanned with vegetable or other oils.] 4. It would be interesting to know what was used originally. Personally I've never felt that neatsfoot oil would impart a shine so I wonder if it was some other oil? However I have felt saddles that were over-oiled and they do have a sticky gritty sort of feeling. They might try Murphy's Oil soap, it's available from the grocery store. I have used it quite a bit but I know from experience it is difficult if not impossible to get out too much oil.... It's pretty amazing some of the stuff people will put on leather.
Because our products are conditioners, not cleaners, they will not remove sweat or watermarks. We consulted two saddlemakers for advice regarding your question. Below are the two courses of action they suggested. (NOTE: Montana Pitch-Blend Products, Inc. takes no responsibility for the result of following any advice which we pass on in this manner.) If you have any questions or concerns about the care suggestions here, you might be best off contacting a leather professional or saddlemaker in your immediate area. SADDLEMAKER #1 - He believes
the white part of the sweat stain may come out if you use
Murphy's Oil Soap to clean the saddle. He also suggests using a
solution of oxalic acid* in water (1 teaspoon oxalic acid to 1
quart water) to clean the saddle - scrub with a soft sponge. Then
rinse.He uses this solution to clean saddles after he has
assembled them in the shop to remove shop dirt. Once the leather
is dry, he treats it with an oil (neetsfoot or our Montana
Pitch-Blend Leather Oil are suitable) then with a top dressing of
Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Dressing before packing the saddle
for shipment to his customers. NOTE: Oxalic acid is available at
pharmacies. WARNING: Consult the pharmacist about any precautions
which are necessary when working with oxalic acid. We have read
that long latex gloves should be worn when using oxalic acid. Do
not touch the outside of the gloves. Discard gloves after each
use and wash well after using oxalic acid, even if gloves are
worn. SADDLEMAKER #2 - Says she would clean the saddle well with saddle soap (which is a glycerine based product) and warm water. Let the saddle dry and then condition with a good saddle oil - again, Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Oil is recommended. This saddlemaker says she is cautious about products that say they won't darken because she says they frequently contain silicone which she does not recommend for use on her saddles. Both saddlemakers say that while a good oil will darken the leather somewhat, it will also condition the leather AND may act to hide any stain that is left. Both also say you may be stuck with some stain and that stains are stains and result from normal use of a saddle.
The first step you need to take, of
course, is to diagnose your problem. If you are uncertain about whether you have
mold/mildew, fatty spew or salt spew, consult with a local leather professional
- saddler, shoe repair shop, etc. FATTY SPEW:
Here is the description of fatty spew offered by Frank Rutland: "Leather
covered by a white hazy deposit." Rutland describes the fatliquoring
part of the leather finishing process and writes "If a leather
lubricating system contains a high melting point ingredient, this ingredient
may, under certain conditions, migrate to the surface of the leather and
solidify. This is the condition we know as spew, or more properly, 'fatty spew.'
" SALT SPEW: Now, it may be that what you have is salt spew: From Rutland's article: "When leather gets wet, residual processing salts can also migrate to the surface and crystallize as the water evaporates. This creates a similar appearing condition known as 'salt spew.' " Rutland writes that salt spew is more unsightly than fatty spew and not as easily removed. "Salt spew cannot be removed by dry wiping like fatty spew. Attempting to do so can, in fact, damage the leather since you are dealing with a hard crystalline material. Salt spew has to be carefully washed off, either with pure water or possibly a mile acid (e.g. vinegar)." To protect against salt spew: 1. Avoid conditions where
leather can get completely saturated 2. Use leathers tanned or
otherwise treated to be water resistant 3. Apply aftermarket products [like Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Dressing and/or Leather Oil!] designed to impart improved repellency and water resistance MOLD AND MILDEW: If what you have is mold or mildew, that's an entirely different matter. Following are two methods for removing mold and/or mildew from leather boots or saddles. The methods would be equally applicable to most rugged outdoor leather gear. [DISCLAIMER: The following suggestions did not originate with Montana Pitch-Blend Products, Inc. and our company does not assume responsibility for the results of following these procedures. We are simply passing this information along.] NOTE: Whenever using any product to treat or clean leather for the first time, it is important to test the product in an inconspicuous spot before treating the entire leather item in order to be sure that the results are satisfactory. Method #1: Wipe with a
solution of equal parts of denatured or rubbing alcohol and water. Dry in a
current of air. If mildew remains, wash with a thick suds of a mild soap, saddle
soap, or a soap containing a germicide or fungicide. Then wipe with a damp cloth
and place in an airy place to dry. (SOURCE: "Footprint" the
publication of the Custom Boot and Shoemakers Guild.) Method #3: (For leather
coats made of a finished, dyed leather) Clean
the mildew off with a warm, DAMP cloth & a good saddle soap or something
like "Leather New" - this should remove some or even most of the
mildew. (Do not use a soaking wet
cloth, but just a DAMP cloth.) After it's dry, the leather can then be
conditioned - VERY LIGHTLY - with a leather conditioner which is intended for
leather clothing. "Lexol" has been suggested for conditioning leather
clothing as it is very lightweight. Again, the application of the conditioner
should be VERY VERY LIGHT. Let it hang and dry completely. Then, as the
conditioner may be somewhat tacky, BUFF it with a lint-free cloth. There are a number of good leather-related Internet sites which, offer links to other informational sites and access to bulletin boards where you can post a query. Some of these are: Leathernet, ShoeInfoNet, International Internet Leathercrafters Guild. Regardless of how you remove the mold from leather, keeping it clean, dry and conditioned with a conditioner that inhibits or discourages mold or mildew will go a long way towards preventing the problem in the future. Our leather conditioners, Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Dressing and Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Oil reportedly (according to anecdotal reports from our customers, including many who live in hot, humid climates) provide this protection for saddles, tack, boots, and other rugged outdoor leather goods.
We contacted a leather shop which suggested avoiding dry cleaners, even those who specialize in leather, as chemicals which are used in the cleaning process can significantly change the look & feel leather. For spot cleaning an area of gasoline spilled on leather, they advise the following:
Unfortunately, our products may not help you with your worn suede jacket as are not intended for use on suede. Being oil-based, they may take the nap of the suede down and you'd lose the "fuzzy" feel & look; it might look more like smooth leather. We consulted a local leather professional, who has owned a custom leather shop for 25 years. He said that his shop stopped offering cleaning services for leather altogether several years ago because the results of sending pieces out to be cleaned were inconsistent and less than satisfactory. He believes that most professional cleaning is highly invasive and ultimately damages the leather in the process. As a result, the leather never looks as good after cleaning as it did originally. My contact says that he himself washes leather (suede included) in MILD soapy water -- he uses Ivory (Woolite will do) -- BY HAND...VERY GENTLY. Sadly, my contact knows of no product on the market intended to restore the color, suppleness, and look to dried, damaged suede. (There is a product called Suede Renew on the market, but it is made for shoes -- you could always check it out at your local shoe store.) We advise contacting leather professionals directly for advice as the best method of solving leather care problems. A reputable professional cleaner who specializes in leather may a product available to restore suede after cleaning. Apple Polishes, Inc. makes products to clean and condition suede as well as nubuck goods. They may have something which would be suitable for this problem.
NOTE: Whenever using something new to treat or clean leather, it is advisable to test in an inconspicuous spot in order to be sure that the results are what you desire. NOTE:
Because our products were developed for use on rugged outdoor
leather (footwear, saddles, hunting gear, etc.) we remind
customers who use them in other applications that they do so at
their own risk. While we have heard from consumers who have had
excellent results using our conditioners on leather goods other
than those recommended by our company, we must advise caution.
For any application, it is advisable to test a small amount of
leather conditioner in an inconspicuous area in order to be sure
that the results will be those desired. IF IN DOUBT, consult a
local leather professional for advice on how to treat your leather
goods. |
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