FAQs - Specialty Q&A
Please consider the following as you review the Q&As we have received over the years...
SUGGESTIONS AND REMEDIES BELOW:
Most suggested remedies below did not originate from Montana Pitch-Blend Products but are from other companies and professionals responding to questions on behalf of our customers. Montana Pitch-Blend Products is passing along this information to the consumer so that he/she may make an educated decision or refer themselves to an experienced professional for further advice and inspection of their item(s).
CONSULT A PRO:
We always encourage consumers to seek the expert opinion of a local leather repair shop or custom leathercrafter. By having an item personally examined first hand by a professional, you can be assured of the best advice and the most appropriate course of action.
DISCLAIMER:
We always suggest proceeding carefully and cautiously with our products, or with any other product. Remember, because our products were developed and recommended for use on rugged outdoor leather, consumers who use our products in other applications must do so at their own risk. Montana Pitch-Blend Products assumes no responsibility for the results of using its products for purposes other than what they were intended for.
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Footwear Q&A
Can I use shoe polish together with your Leather Dressing?
A common question: "If I use Montana Pitch Blend Dressing on my boots, can I still polish them with regular paste wax such as Kiwi or Lincoln Stain Wax etc? The short answer is "Yes."
Here's the advice of a well-respected shoe repair shop owner and cobbler:
"Since Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Dressing has ingredients compatible with shoe polish/cream, it should not prevent the user from getting a nice shine on shoes or boots. The gloss of the shine depends also on the type and quality of the leather, the amount of polish and Leather Dressing used (very little), and the time spent to develop the shine (a lot)."
In general, if you need to condition your footwear, we suggest a LIGHT application of Leather Dressing. Work it in well and then let it sit for a day at room temperature to allow it to absorb completely (or use a hair dryer on LOW to help melt the Dressing in quicker). After it has been absorbed, then polish and finish the footwear.
To protect the shoe polish you may do what some cobblers have reported that they do: Apply a light coat of Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Dressing over the polish once it has dried. A light coating of Dressing helps the polish last longer and keeps footwear water-repellent. We hear from shoe repair shops that Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Dressing also blends in best and minimizes the appearance of scuffs than other brands on the market.
Can I use Montana Pitch-Blend and still spit-shine my boots?
While we have heard from customers in the military that they have used our product underneath their polish and then spit-shined their boots, our cobbler friend suggests that a spit shine can only be accomplished with many layers of hard polish and a 'spit-shine' technique.
Can I use Montana Pitch-Blend on boots lined with GORE-TEX®, Thinsulate®, or other waterproof membranes? Do they still need conditioning?
Yes. Even boots lined with a water-proof membrane still require conditioning because the leather portion of the boot needs protection from drying, cracking, and water damage.
Untreated boots will deteriorate more quickly than conditioned and well-maintained boots. Montana Pitch-Blend Products are ideal for all work, sport, field and hunting boots: oil-tanned, chrome-tanned, dry-tanned or silicone-impregnated. They are also ideal on boots lined with GORE-TEX® and Thinsulate®. Remember, the leather portion of the boot requires regular conditioning to protect it from damage caused by water, heat, or extreme conditions. NOTE: Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Care Products will not harm the GORE-TEX® lining.
It is important to note that the W.L. Gore Company, in their printed literature as well as on their website, makes no caution against using leather conditioners on footwear lined with their GORE-TEX® membrane. In fact, the company states the following on its website:
WATER REPELLENT TREATMENT: "Follow footwear manufacturer's instructions for treatment of external fabric and leather. Treatments will not affect GORE-TEX® liner."
Unfortunately, some boot manufacturers may have their own reasons for recommending against using certain types of conditioners on boots lined with GORE-TEX®. Some companies are concerned about consumers using anything on their boots because there are so many kinds of products on the market and results do vary. Other companies may be concerned that some products may affect the performance of their linings if outer conditioners are over-applied. This concern is sometimes referred to as "breathability" and has come up with regards to lined/insulated boots many times over the years. After talking to several reputable and experienced bootmakers and retailers, we quickly discovered this concern to be a misnomer or myth of sorts. The bottom line is that boots require so-called "breathability" in a way that has nothing to do with applying a coat of conditioner that absorbs into the leather. The performance of lined/insulated boots is not in any way affected by the use of our conditioner or any other conditioner that we know of.
As for other boot manufacturers' concerns with using various leather care products, we have seen that many companies wish to discourage consumers from using anything but their company's own leather care or privately-labeled products. But this doesn't mean that the manufacturer's boots/goods cannot be well-cared for with another company's leather conditioner or leather treatment product.
For example, in the case of so-called dry-tanned leather, some manufacturers recommend only silicone products for the protection of the boot. What both consumers and even manufacturers don't often realize is that silicone, while it will provide some initial short-term resistance to water, won't do a thing to condition the leather. In fact, many leather-crafters feel that silicone will actually dry out the leather - and whether it dries out prematurely or is left unconditioned, the leather will eventually crack and sustain irreversible damage. If in doubt, check with a local, reputable independent shoe repair shop or some other leather professional who has no affiliation to any particular product or brand.
Can I use Montana Pitch-Blend on "waterproof" boots made from dry tanned leather?
Some - but not all - GORE-TEX® -lined and/or so-called "waterproof" boots are made from "dry-tanned" leather. Some manufacturers claim that oil-based products should not be used on these kinds of tanned leathers.
We consulted Frank Rutland (past Technical Director of Leather Industries of America, past Director of the Leather Industries Research Laboratory at the University of Cincinnati, past President of the American Leather Chemists Association, and past Chairman of the American Society for Testing and Materials Committee D-31 on Leather) who replied:
"What this term 'dry-tanned' may refer to is [a type of] waterproof leather, which is produced with what are known as 'lubricating acrylic syntans,' and contain little or no additional lubricating oils (fatliquors) - thus 'dry' in the sense there are no added oils. Leathers of this type can easily lose their water-resistant properties if treated with surface active agents that may be contained in some leather cleaning /conditioning products." (NOTE: Montana Pitch-Blend conditioners contains no surface active agents.) "I agree with your position that treating leather - any type of leather - with oil is beneficial. The natural oils and added fatliquors in the leather tend to oxidize and 'dry out' over time, and need to be replenished. This helps prolong the life of the leather and prevents loss of strength and softness. I do not know of any type of leather that is harmed by the addition of oil."
Countless Montana Pitch-Blend customers use our Leather Dressing and Leather Oil on their "dry-tanned" leather boots with excellent results. We are confident in recommending our leather conditioners for all rugged outdoor leather footwear including dry-tanned leather footwear.
Can I use Montana Pitch-Blend on silicone-impregnated leather boots?
Yes. The silicone treatment will eventually wear off and you must use something to maintain water-repellency. A spray silicone will provide some initial short-term resistance to water, but it won't condition the leather (in fact, the silicone may prematurely dry the leather out, according to leathercrafters and experienced footwear experts. If you use an oil-based conditioner like ours, the leather will stay water-repellent and supple so much longer than with silicone, and the oil is actually beneficial to the leather.
Can I use Montana Pitch-Blend on suede or rough-out boots?
Although our leather conditioners will certainly not harm these leathers in any way, we do not generally recommend Montana Pitch-Blend leather conditioners for use on suede, rough-out or Nubuck leathers only because the appearance and feel of the leather may be somewhat altered.
Oil-based products like ours can change the texture of the leather from a "napped" or suede-like to a smoother texture because of the oil that is being smoothed into the brushed texture. Customers usually purchase suede, Nubuck, or rough-out leather because of their special appearance and texture, which also means they usually do not want those features changed by any product.
That being said, we have had many happy customers over the years who have still decided to use our Leather Dressing or Leather Oil on these kinds of brushed textures because they preferred the water-protection benefits over maintaining the appearance of the texture of their shoes/boots. The decision is ultimately up to the consumer and the need or function of the shoe/boot.
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Saddles and Tack Q&A
Do your products darken a saddle or other leather?
Yes, our products may darken leather a shade or two. This is not usually a problem for most customers and does not affect the function of the leather. However, if you have a light colored saddle or any leather item that you want to preserve, you may want to spot-test our product first on an inconspicuous place on the item FIRST before you treat the entire piece, or else seek another conditioner which is specifically intended for light colored leather.
Can Montana Pitch-Blend be used on English saddles or are they only for Western saddles?
Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Dressing is excellent as a top dressing for all kinds of saddles, including both English and Western. Not only does it condition, but it may be buffed up to a lovely rich glow. One of the stores that has carried our Leather Dressing for years is exclusively an English shop and recommends our Leather Dressing to all their customers.
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Leather Books, Furniture, Vehicles/Boats - Q&A
Can I use Montana Pitch-Blend on leather-bound books?
Here's what one of our customers, who collects and restores antique books, has to say about Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Dressing and his 400-year-old book:
"This product has turned out to be the best leather conditioner I have ever used. I collect rare and antiquarian books and use this product to restore the leather bound books I purchase. I was amazed when I was able to restore a book that had been printed in 1601 and had not been treated for four hundred years. Although the book required three treatments (the first had to be applied with cotton q-tips since the leather was extremely brittle), but it is now possible to handle the book normally. No other leather conditioner that I have used before is as good as Montana Pitch-Blend leather care."
R.P.H. - Berkeley, CA
The International Book Collectors Association, however, suggests caution:
"Leather dressings were at one time thought to be useful in extending the life of leather bindings. Experience has shown, however, that the benefit is primarily cosmetic and that inexpert use of leather dressing does more harm than good. Studies have shown that leather dressing can cause the leather to dry out over time. Leather may become stiffer, accompanied by darkening or surface staining. If too much dressing is applied too frequently, the surface of the leather may become sticky and attract dust and the oil stains and deteriorates the paper. Consolidants like Klucel G (food-grade) can be applied by book conservators to bind dry rotted leather and keep it from offsetting onto other books or textbooks. For handling purposes, polyester film jackets can be made for books. The preservation procedures described here have been used by the Library of Congress in the care of its collections and are considered suitable by the Library as described; however, the Library and/or the International Book Collectors Association will not be responsible for damage to your collection should damage result from the use of these procedures."
Can I use Montana Pitch-Blend to condition leather furniture?
Our conditioners were designed for rugged outdoor leathers which are usually footwear, saddles and tack, motorcycle leathers, etc. Furniture leathers can be quite different from outdoor leathers and different products to treat them. These specialty products are usually recommended by the manufacturer or retail store where you purchased the furniture.
That being said, many customers use Montana Pitch-Blend on their thick leather furniture over many years with success. Most leather furniture is made from thick tougher leathers because it has to perform well over many years of repeat and demanding use. In these cases, oil-based conditioners like ours are ideal because they absorb well into the leather and go a long way towards keeping the leather in top-performing condition while helping to minimize the appearance of scratches and scuffs on the leather that occur with everyday use.
The only situations that tend to be problematic are when the leather furniture has been pre-treated by the store or manufacturer and so it already has some kind of product infused onto or into the leather. This either requires that the consumer continue to use that particular product or it may simply require the leather to be cleaned first to remove any prior residue before re-conditioning with Montana Pitch-Blend. When in doubt, talk to the store or manufacturer where you purchased the item.
My outdoor spa cover is showing signs of wear. Can I use Montana Pitch-Blend on it?
Absolutely. According to customers of ours, their outdoor spa covers - although vinyl - have been restored and subsequently resist the drying and cracking normally caused by exposure to the elements much better if treated with Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Dressing.
Will Montana Pitch-Blend work on leather car or truck seats?
Our products were created for use on rugged outdoor leather (most commonly used on boots, saddles, hunting and sports equipment, motorcycle leathers, etc.). Because the leather in most car/truck seats is made of a thick rugged type of skin, our products should work ideally and help protect the leather against drying, cracking, and fading. However, if your vehicle upholstery is not genuine leather or is a pre-treated or delicate variety, we suggest you contact an automotive dealer or body/upholstery shop or a reputable furniture upholstery store that deals in special-use leather upholstery. But overall we have had heard from many customers over the last twenty years who enjoy using our all-natural oil conditioners on all their rugged leather goods, including cars, trucks, vans, boats, etc.
Can I use Montana Pitch-Blend on my leather airplane upholstery?
Questions about maintaining airplane leather upholstery is somewhat outside our area of expertise. Because airplane upholstery must be fireproofed to meet federal standards, the best course of action is to consult an upholsterer or the manufacturer of the leather itself. These professionals are best able to make an appropriate suggestion for maintenance. Other resources include an auto detailer, a reputable upholsterer, or even a furniture store which deals in high-end leather furniture, although they may not be able to address the question of fireproofed leather.
In general, we are cautious about using our products on anything but rugged outdoor leather. While outstanding for conditioning and protecting such outdoor leather goods, oil-based products may leave residue on these pre-treated airplane leather upholstery which may not be desirable. The best course of action is just to proceed cautiously and check with a professional who specializes in that kind of leather upholstery.
Can I use your products to give my leather a glossy shine?
No. Our products will not provide a glossy or shiny appearance. Instead, our products absorb well into the leather skin and when buffed they will render a rich warm glow. Most customers tell us they prefer a natural glow instead of glossy shine, but if you're looking specifically for a shiny result, then our products will not accomplish that for you. We recommend you contact a local leather shop in your area to get some advice about what product to use.
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Leather Apparel - Q&A
What do I use on a fine leather jacket - in this case, lambskin?
We do not recommend our products or any other oil-based leather conditioners for fine, lightweight, ultrasoft, or specially textured leather garments.
One local leather shop tells us that water-based or lanolin sprays/lotions are most appropriate for soft, fine leather garments such as lambskin. These light products do not provide the highest protection or benefits, but they offer the most even application and will not over-saturate the leather. There are a number of leather lotions on the market intended for fine leather garments. Check with the store where you purchased the item for some advice.
Another local leather shop owner suggests a spray-on conditioner, preferably one which does not contain silicone. He advises a spray because it will provide the most even application which is difficult to accomplish on a jacket when rubbing an oil or dressing on by hand.
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Miscellaneous Q&A
What kinds of leather can I use Montana Pitch-Blend on?
All kinds of rugged leather goods!....work boots, gloves, and jackets, winter boots, motorcycle leathers and panniers, casual everyday boots and shoes, saddles and tack, knife sheaths, bowhunting finger tabs and armguards, tool belts, leather work aprons, baseball gloves, soccer shoes, leather cross-country boots, hockey goalie pads, even spa covers...and the list goes on. If you own an item covered or made from standard or thick leather skin, then you should be using Montana Pitch-Blend all-natural leather treatments to restore, condition, protect, and preserve it for years to come. All rugged leather will last longer and perform better if treated with Montana Pitch-Blend all-natural leather treatment products!
When I hunt in an area with no pine trees, will the natural pine scent in your products still help me?
Yes. According to internationally acclaimed bowhunters and scent experts, even in areas where pine trees do not grow, the natural pine scent is quite effective in masking human or unnatural smells. The pine smell, while not indigenous to some areas, is not associated with humans and so does not alarm game animals. Most other leather care products smell of petroleum, silicone, or any number of other chemicals or artificial scents. Even "scentless" products, while not containing chemical smells, do nothing to help mask human and other smells, so either way you're better off utilizing our natural Montana Pitch-Blend leather conditioners when you hunt and sport in the great outdoors.
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Problems & Solutions - Q&A
Below are various problems sent in by consumers along with solutions suggested by leather professionals we inquired of.
What do I use to "reproof" my oiled cotton (or waxed cotton) duster? Can I use your Leather Dressing?
We have a customer who makes waxed-cotton bags (http://www.bravebrownbag.com) and she recommends and sells our product to her customers for re-treating her bags.
When it comes to oiled cotton (also known as wax cotton "oilcloth") dusters, we have contacted representatives of a couple of duster distributors. A representative of one company indicated that the product they buy for reproofing their coats contains mineral oil, lanolin, vitamin E oil, and selected waxes. Another company imports and distributes Australian gear including dusters as well as a product for reproofing the dusters. Dusters come from the manufacturer treated with a mixture of paraffin (wax) and mineral oil. One representative we spoke with said that their reproofer contains wax and oil but was uncertain about what specific types of wax and oil. We explained that our dressing contains pine pitch, mink oil and beeswax. He agreed that there is probably nothing wrong with using our product. The main question is whether or not it might change the color, darkening the fabric. So, we offer the above as objective advice and can only recommend trying it at your own risk. (Please let us know if you have a conclusive answer to this fairly open-ended question.)
How can I get wrinkles out of leather clothing?
We receive this question frequently and have consulted with leather professionals to try to learn the best ways to deal with this dilemma. Besides professional advice, we have a report from a consumer who followed up with the story of her own wrinkled leather. Their suggestions follow.
FROM AN INDEPENDENT LEATHER PROFESSIONAL:
A local custom tailor who works on motorcycle leathers and other leather clothing said that it might be safe to use a little steam on the curled portions of the leather, then place a book or two on top to keep it flat. Leave it overnight or longer. She could not guarantee the results and cautioned - THIS IS IMPORTANT - that one should not OVER steam and should NEVER touch the leather with an iron or anything else that is hot.
FROM A CONSUMER:
This woman reported back to us on how she ultimately solved the problem of a badly wrinkled leather skirt. "Thanks for the help with my wrinkled leather skirt. I've managed to remove most of the wrinkles by: hanging it up on a skirt hanger and clipping a pants-hanger to the hem. I hung a small [weighted] basket onto the pants hanger, then hung the skirt in the steamed bathroom. It has really helped. I may resort to a bit of leather conditioner to see if that'll remove the rest of the wrinkles, and/or lay it between a bed mattress for a week, but the skirt is at least wearable."
What can I use to remove pen ink from my leather couch?
Here is some information we have gleaned from the internet:
From "Steps on How to Remove Ink From a Leather Sofa", by Barbara Ann Kipfer, Ph.D.
*Work on removing the stain as soon as you discover it. Dried ink is especially difficult to get out, unless you act quickly.
*Blot the stain with a soft dry cloth or cotton ball.
*Moisten another cloth and clean lightly with circular movements. Dry the surface with a soft cloth.
*Try a little saddle soap or another leather cleaner, but first read the label regarding its safety for use on your particular kind of leather. You may also try removing the stain with lukewarm water and shampoo. [Note: Montana Pitch-Blend Products has heard from customers that our Leather Oil Soap has been effective in removing all kinds of stains from leather goods, and without overly drying or stripping-out the leather during cleaning. We recommend you try our Leather Oil Soap in lieu of household detergents or saddle soaps which are harsh on the leather.]
*Contact the manufacturer for a remedy for the type of ink used - the company may sell its own solvent.
Tips: Traditional wisdom recommends treating ink stains with milk or tomato. Cover the stain with a little milk or rub it with the cut side of a half a tomato. Take more care with the tomato remedy, as tomatoes contain some acidity. Rinse either treatment well.
Warnings: Avoid any kind of cleaner or detergent, unless it's specified for the particular sofa or particular leather, as it could harm the leather.
Other consumer advice:
"I've used WD-40 on stubborn stains and it works great - ink/grease/whatever comes right off. Just spray it on the towel, not directly on the leather/vinyl. Clean afterwards with leather cleaner, then condition."
How do I remove chewing gum from my leather couch?
We consulted a local upholsterer who has had decades of experience with leather furniture. He has advice, but it is preceded by a WARNING: Whatever you use to remove the gum, you may well be left with a different kind of spot on your couch. TEST FIRST in a small area where you cannot see it and see what the result is before proceeding.
His first suggestion is to use the same type of stuff we all used to get chewing gum out of our kids' hair - margarine, mineral oil, salad oil, peanut butter (this last would leave a smell, however). A little of this oily stuff should soften the gum enough to remove it. KEEP IN MIND HOWEVER, you will likely be left with a greasy spot which may or may not be preferable to the chewing gum.
Alternatively, another suggestion he had was to use a little lighter fluid or Naphtha to remove the gum. Again, THERE IS A DOWNSIDE - it could damage the finish, the color or the sheen of the leather. TEST FIRST! Whichever way you go, this upholsterer said to follow up by wiping the leather with a damp cloth which has been dipped in warm, sudsy water (MILD soap - like Ivory) and rung out well.
CONSUMER FEEDBACK: "Wow - I'd have never thought about vegetable oil, but it did the trick! Due to the location - somewhat under the arm rest of the couch, you can't tell even if there is an oil stain there. The gum came off quicker that I would have expected. I just dipped a cloth-covered finger lightly into the oil and started rubbing gently. I then followed it up with the leather cleaner supplied when we got the furniture, and it seems we are 'good to go'. Thank you so very much for your assistance. I was at my wits end when I discovered it (it's about 4 days old) and the ice wasn't working. Thanks again!!"
My saddle is sticky - how do I correct the problem?
Here are suggestions from two different saddlers:
Saddler #1: Totally wet the saddle with water. A bar of glycerin soap, rather than the spray, used with the water bath should do it. This will take out a lot of the oil - then place it inside (not in direct heat) and let it dry out. Then apply conditioner. [Note: We recommend using our Leather Oil Soap first, then after the saddle is mostly dry apply our Leather Oil or Leather Dressing.]
Saddler #2: I've had several cleaning jobs with old sticky harnesses. The solution that worked for me was to start with a mix of three parts LeatherNew and 1 part ammonia. Obviously try on a safe area first and if more power is needed than go with a 50/50 mix. Scrub with a soft brush and then rinse well with lukewarm water. Just before the leather dries, while still cool to the touch apply the best conditioner on the market, which of course is Montana Pitch Blend.
How can I remove sweat or water marks on saddles?
Montana Pitch-Blend makes a wonderful all-natural Leather Oil Soap for the cleaning of soiled or stained rugged leather goods. Our Oil Soap was actually developed based on the advice of saddlemakers who used to recommend oil soaps and NOT detergents or saddle soaps for the cleaning and maintenance of their saddles. So, we recommend you give our Oil Soap a try and see if that doesn't help resolve some stains and marks left behind on your saddle for any number of reasons.
And in the interest of objectivity and fairness, below are the two courses of action suggested by saddlemakers before we came out with our effective Leather Oil Soap...
SADDLEMAKER #1 - He believes the white part of the sweat stain may come out if you use an oil soap to first clean the saddle. He also suggests using a solution of oxalic acid* in water (1 teaspoon oxalic acid to 1 quart water) to clean the saddle - scrub with a soft sponge, then rinse. He uses this solution to clean saddles after he has assembled them in the shop to remove shop dirt. Once the leather is dry, he treats it with an oil [our Leather Oil or even neetsfoot oil is suitable] then with a top dressing [like Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Dressing] before packing the saddle for shipment to his customers. NOTE: Oxalic acid is available at pharmacies. WARNING: Consult the pharmacist about any precautions which are necessary when working with oxalic acid. We have read that long latex gloves should be worn when using oxalic acid. Do not touch the outside of the gloves. Discard gloves after each use and wash well after using oxalic acid, even if gloves are worn. *A possible substitute for oxalic acid is a solution of lemon or lime juice and water.
SADDLEMAKER #2 - Says she would clean the saddle well with saddle soap (which is a glycerine based product) and warm water. Let the saddle dry and then condition with a good saddle oil [again, Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Oil is recommended]. This saddlemaker says she is cautious about products that say they won't darken because she says they frequently contain silicone which she does not recommend for use on her saddles.
Both saddlemakers say that while a good oil will darken the leather somewhat, it will condition the leather AND may act to hide any stain that is left. Both also say you may be stuck with some stains, which are to be expected and are the result of normal use of a saddle.
What is this "white stuff" and what can I do about it?
(Fatty Spew - Salt Spew - Mold - Mildew)
The first step you need to take, of course, is to diagnose your problem. If you are uncertain about whether you have mold/mildew, fatty spew or salt spew, consult with a local leather professional: saddler, shoe repair shop, etc.
As it happens, we have an excellent article from "Shoe Talk" magazine by Frank Rutland (retired Technical Director of the Leather Industries Research Laboratory at the University of Cincinnati) which discusses both "fatty spew" and "salt spew." (Fatty spew is another name for fatty "bloom.") We also have suggestions on removing mold and mildew provided by a number of experts. Please read on:
FATTY SPEW: Here is the description of fatty spew offered by Frank Rutland: "Leather covered by a white hazy deposit." Rutland describes the fatliquoring part of the leather finishing process and writes "If a leather lubricating system contains a high melting point ingredient, this ingredient may, under certain conditions, migrate to the surface of the leather and solidify. This is the condition we know as spew, or more properly, 'fatty spew.' "
According to this article and other experts, fatty spew is mostly an aesthetic problem and is not harmful to the leather. If you wish to confirm that a white haze is fatty spew, you may follow this procedure (also from Rutland's article): "If leather is brought into the vicinity of a mild heat source (Match, lighter or even a light bulb), spew will melt and soak back into the leather, leaving a clear circular area around the heat source."
To remove fatty spew: "It can usually be removed by wiping with a dry cloth, but is very likely to reappear if the same conditions [usually cool conditions] exist. Mild heating can also be used to melt the spew so it will reabsorb, but this also is not likely to be permanent."
SALT SPEW: From Rutland's article: "When leather gets wet, residual processing salts can also migrate to the surface and crystallize as the water evaporates. This creates a similar appearing condition known as 'salt spew'."
Rutland writes that salt spew is more unsightly than fatty spew and not as easily removed. "Salt spew cannot be removed by dry wiping like fatty spew. Attempting to do so can, in fact, damage the leather since you are dealing with a hard crystalline material. Salt spew has to be carefully washed off, either with pure water or possibly a mild acid (e.g. vinegar)."
To protect against salt spew:
* Avoid conditions where leather can get completely saturated.
* Use leathers tanned or otherwise treated to be water resistant.
* Apply aftermarket products [like Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Dressing and/or Leather Oil!] designed to impart improved repellency and water resistance.
MOLD AND MILDEW: If what you have is mold or mildew, that's an entirely different matter. Following are two methods for removing mold and/or mildew from leather boots or saddles. The methods would be equally applicable to most rugged outdoor leather gear.
Method #1: Wipe with a solution of equal parts of denatured or rubbing alcohol and water. Dry in a current of air. If mildew remains, wash with a thick suds of a mild soap or a soap containing a germicide or fungicide [Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Oil Soap is an excellent choice]. Then wipe with a damp cloth and place in an airy place to dry. (SOURCE: "Footprint" the publication of the Custom Boot and Shoemakers Guild.)
Method #2: Wash leather with an oily soap [like Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Oil Soap], using a little bleach in the rinse water. (SOURCE: advice given in an equestrian newsgroup.)
Method #3: (For leather coats made of a finished, dyed leather) Clean the mildew off with a warm, DAMP cloth and a good soap or something like "Leather New" - this should remove some or even most of the mildew. (Do not use a soaking wet cloth, but just a DAMP cloth.) After it's dry, the leather can then be conditioned - VERY LIGHTLY - with a leather conditioner which is intended for leather clothing. Again, the application of the conditioner should be VERY LIGHT. Let it hang and dry completely. Then, as the conditioner may be somewhat tacky, BUFF it with a lint-free cloth.
Method #4: (For leather coats made of unpigmented leather OR made of suede) Take the coat to a dry cleaner to be cleaned. You may end up with some blotching from the mildew and the dry cleaning may dry the leather out some, but at least the mildew will come out.
There are a number of good leather-related internet sites which offer links to other informational sites and access to bulletin boards where you can post a query. Some of these are: Leathernet, ShoeInfoNet, International Internet Leathercrafters Guild.
Regardless of how you remove the mold from leather, keeping it clean, dry and conditioned with a conditioner that inhibits or discourages mold or mildew will go a long way towards preventing the problem in the future. Our leather conditioners, Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Dressing and Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Oil, provide this protection for saddles, tack, boots, and other rugged outdoor leather goods due to the pine pitch in our formula - which is a natural preservative and helps to inhibit the growth of mold, mildew, and fungus.
How do I clean gasoline spilled onto my leather jacket or boots?
Our Leather Oil Soap is specifically made for cleaning soiled rugged leather goods, like outer jackets and boots. See "Our Natural Products" page for more information on our Leather Oil Soap. But in addition to cleaning the gasoline off the leather, we have heard from truck drivers who use our products that making sure you re-condition them will go a long way in preventing any damage or deterioration from gasoline. One of our customers shared with us that he used to go through over a dozen pairs of boots a year because of the gasoline spills he would encounter in his job which ruined his boots very quickly. All of that changed when he started protecting the leather with our Leather Dressing. Now he saves the money and time of having to get new boots so frequently.
NOTE: It may take more than one cleaning to solve your problem. After washing the leather once, leather it dry completely and check to see if the stain is removed before repeating the treatment. If a couple of spot-cleanings do not remove the stain, you may end up needing to simply conditioning the entire item in hopes that it will help darken the whole item and hide the remaining stain.
My old suede leather jacket was dry-cleaned and now looks worn and dried out. How can I make it look good again?
Unfortunately, our products may not help you suede. Being oil-based, they usually cause the suede nap to lay-down and you'd lose the "fuzzy" feel & look; it might look more like smooth leather.
We consulted a local leather professional, who has owned a custom leather shop for 25 years. He said that his shop stopped offering cleaning services for leather altogether several years ago because the results of sending pieces out to be cleaned were inconsistent and less than satisfactory. He believes that most professional cleaning is highly invasive and ultimately damages the leather in the process. As a result, the leather never looks as good after cleaning as it did originally.
We advise contacting leather professionals directly for advice as the best method of solving leather care problems. A reputable professional cleaner who specializes in leather should have a product available to restore suede after cleaning.
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